After the scorching July, thankfully this month was quite mild here. We started out by receiving a new boiler from Fabrice, our landlord, which closed the malfunctioning radiator problem. Nothing worse than having a radiator heat up, along with the outside temperatures. It reminded me of an unfortunate episode we had in 1984 of driving through the Mojave desert, at the peak of day in a Chrysler Horizon with radiator issues. Windows rolled down, we were baking in heat over 100 degrees, yet had to run the heater just to keep the car from overheating. And in addition, I had to put a towel over my gas peddle foot to prevent my skin from getting burnt to a crisp from the cranked up heat vent. Anyway, August here was blissfully light for the most part.
Fred Hotel
G had planned events for my birthday that he would not divulge nor cancel to continue his back recovery. So the first week of the month, we took a train to Paris, staying at the Fred Hotel. It is a very nice and really reasonably priced hotel, even though we found the name amusing. There was a fair in town that reminded us of the old small town carnivals we saw as kids. They had things to do for both adults and children; fast, loud rides, fun houses, bumper cars, little autos on miniature roadway tracks, chance games with air rifles, darts and rings showing huge stuffed animals as prizes. There were a ton of food vendors as expected but the food choices were clearly French. The was a cotton candy stand but then there were glaces instead of ice cones, waffles or crepes with toppings instead of donuts, sausages in baguettes instead of hot dogs and corn dogs, and so forth. We saw a tiny handwritten sign at the end of one counter which said, “American Style Hot Dogs – e4.” We left the heat of the fair, walking through the Jardin des Tuileries, enjoying it’s beautiful long sweeps of landscaping dotted with shade trees.
Our dinner was at a great little gem we found around the corner from Hotel Fred, called Bistrotters. They had two seatings (at 7pm and 9pm) with a set three course meal. We were too late for the first course but decided to stay for the last two since 9pm was too late to eat for us. Everything was made in house. Accompanied by a wonderful Bordeaux, G had the pork belly and I had the rabbit dish, which was a scallopini of rabbit (called a saddle) wrapped around a rabbit sausage. The vegetables included an eggplant puree, sweet potato crisps, fingerling potatoes and roasted onion. We also shared two of their desserts. The first was a trio of fruit dishes; an apricot glace, a nectarine curl over a nectarine puree on a biscuit and then a baked peach slice. The second was a French toasted brociole in a chocolate sauce. Every bite of this meal was perfect.
The next day we went to lunch and as usual, we came across a wonderful courtyard that are typical in Paris and throughout France.
We also went to an art luminary exhibit, L’Atelier des Lumieres, which is a traveling show copying one we’d read about, held in the south of France until October. There, it is projected against the rock walls of a quarry, whereas this one was in a large auditorium which also held rounded and square columns to add interesting angles. There were three programs in all, set to music, featuring works of Van Gough, Klimt and classic Japanese art prints. The imagery, slowly floating, was enlarged to fill the the ceiling, walls and flooring. You were walking through landscapes, starry skies and beautiful paintings, with a beautiful sound track. Our pictures simply do not do this production justice. It was completely mesmerizing. https://www.atelier-lumieres.com/
The next day was a jaunt to meet a cooking guide and we were joined by another couple. Patrick started his class by taking us through a variety of markets, giving tips and explanations along the way. We visited a Charcuterie, Poissonnier, produce market, cheese monger and a boulang. He explained there were laws that dictated these markets be available within a certain distance. We learned that the sign “Boulang” could only be used by an institution which actually baked their goods on that location, versus the sign “Boulangerie” which sold the goods but didn’t bake them. Other tips included how to pick the best fish, meats and produce, including a basic course on cheese varieties.
After the markets, we went to the cooking studio and proceeded to put together our meal. Champagne, breads and pates began the courses. Next we made fish filets in a mustard sauce, with pan fried fingerling potatoes. The third was duck and quail with fresh peas, Chantelle mushrooms and a fresh cherry sauce. Fourth was a round of cheeses, finishing last with a lemon curd and three different berries. All along the preparation, we were taught how to properly cook duck, filet a fish and the art of how to cut a variety of cheeses. It was just a great time and our two companions were terrific fun, too.
After a brief overnight return back at our apartment in Lille, we were off to London on the Chunnel. We arrived at a fabulous hotel, over the Saint Pancras Station, with a room which overlooked the train platforms.
It had a lounge, The Chambers Club, which was a perfect place to relax between outings. Dinner was incredible but even more so was what I seriously think was the best cocktail I’ve ever had. Called Amber Embers, it consisted of Lapsang Souchong tea infused Scotch, Martini Russo, Apricot, lemon and smoke. Presented in a box where the smoke had been pumped into, similar to a humidor. Besides that, G’s Rhubarb Gimlet was extremely tasty as well.
The next day, after enjoying a leisurely walk around London, we went to see “Mouse Trap”, an Agatha Christie murder mystery play which has been on the stage for 45 years running. It was a wonderful evening with great players.
To cap the trip, G presented me with a video, spliced together of all our family and friends sending birthday wishes. Included were a wide array of birthday songs and toasts. Even our Parisian landlords, our immigration attorney and our Lille landlords (all now friends) were involved. It is something I treasure and will keep, always. I’m thinking later that perhaps I could make a second income from blackmailing them. 😀
Back to Lille and to unwind. For poor G, it was nursing his sorely tested back. It was a time for reading, completing errands and catching up on paperwork. We found a couple of light shades in town that were fun, which we installed in the kitchen.
Then it was time to return to Paris for my appointments regarding my foot. After an X-ray and IRM, then a trip to the foot specialist, the answers to my troubled foot was not at all what I expected. It turned out that I was born with an extra bone in the ankle, that has become aggravated by shorten tendons, my flat shoes and all the walking we do now. I’ve always avoided heels in footwear but apparently need to invest in a pair of walkers with a heel to help stretch the tendons. Plus, of course, a series of exercises. G was examined at the same time and he has the same issue, which is the reason behind his back issues. As a matter of fact, the specialist was surprised that I hadn’t developed back issues as well. So a problem that has an easy solution, which is the best kind. And of course, some walking around and sightseeing.
Upon returning to Lille, we discussed the two chairs in our living room which have turned out in the long run, to be hard on our backs. Contacting Flo, we arranged to have them hauled out and sold used, in the annual August Lille Braderie, the one time of year that we could actually do this. On one of our walks later, it was a total surprise that we actually found and bought two perfect replacement chairs. Our backs will thank us.
The last day of the month was the first of the annual two-day Lille Braderie. The entire centre city closes it’s roads and thousands of sellers line their tents along the sidewalks, side streets and river walk. Since the second day ended on September 1st, we’ve saved our pictures and story about it for our September chapter. Especially since we had so many pictures on this month’s adventures. Below, just a few of next month’s photos…
twokiddosoverseas.com 
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