July 2020

Fair warning: This is not about our travels. We are still not traveling. And very few pictures.

Like the rest of the world (or most of the world), we took a step back from the tsunami of the Covid-19 virus and self quarantined. As we explained in March, as one of us is compromised and we are both in the age ‘at risk’ category, it was first a question of whether we should stay put or return to the US. After a two-day lengthy discussion, deciding on 2/29 to remain, we stocked up on food, frozen vegetables, medications and home supplies. We gave away our Lille l’Opera tickets to younger, non-compromised neighbors.

And remained sequestered in our apartment. The streets, sidewalks and squares began to empty. Then as time passed, all became eerily empty. As the days warmed, we would sit on the balcony at a newly purchased bistro table to watch those few who passed below. G, the one of us not compromised, took to shopping for groceries during the least-trafficked times. He bought masks at the pharmacy, next door, which with grocery stores, remained open. He had to print a form from the government website (ATTESTATION DE DÉPLACEMENT DÉROGATOIRE) – fill it out, stating the purpose of his trip, the place, date and time – all of which were regulated. And he did this for each trip out. If the police asked for it and he couldn’t produce it, big fines!

Whether he shopped at larger or smaller super marchés determined the type and variety of fresh produce, fish and meats which replaced our frozen supplies. He would bring home flowers to brighten our table. The temporary, quickly-installed Saran Wrap cashier/customer virus-barriers gave way to the more permanent plastic barriers between the customers and cashier. Also, the government issued rules that no cash was to be used, all was to be paid by bank card. Self-check, if available, was the preferred option.

Upon returning, he would go through the routine of leaving the shoes used for outside, next to the front door, then washing and sanitizing his face and hands up to his elbows. He wiped down his wallet and keys, even completely disrobing on two occasions upon returning, when the store was packed with careless, non-mask wearing, non-social distancing people, to wash his clothes and shower. He admitted that the trips outside were stressful and not enjoyable as he worried about bringing home the virus. Two, more diligent people, would be hard to find.

Weeks turned into months. Family who had planned to visit us were unable to, of course, and tickets were canceled. We refused to fall into the ‘let’s wear pajamas all day’ mentality. We had a to-do list that we steadily worked on. Things I never thought we’d actually get accomplished, were completed. We took care of any paperwork that had always been pushed to the back of our concerns. Computers were cleaned up, new security measures were installed and finally finished a huge stack of paper shredding. And we re-hired our Oakland French tutor (who originates from France) for on-line instruction. It was one of the best decisions as we got a firm direction and it renewed our efforts.

Odd markers became our time keepers. Two trash days and Sunday. Sunday was always, and still remains, laundry day. Everything here closes on Sunday but now everything was always closed. Still, we kept laundry on Sunday because we needed the marker. Garbage gets picked up Tuesday nights and recycle on Friday nights, which also helped us keep track of our weeks.

Our hair got longer, our time was spent on new items. We perused new recipes on the internet to cook; G took up bread baking as a hobby. I worked on knitting a scarf that I had started four years ago, managing a few rows a day (too antsy to do more in one sitting) and I’ll be finished by next month at that rate. Accomplished absolutely all of the mending and the hand washing of delicate scarves that I’d set aside. Took apart our wobbly living room sofa-couch and reassembled it since the screws were never properly tightened at delivery. Screens went up on the windows as the bug season arrived.

VPN became even more of a foundation, along with Netflix, Hulu and USGOTV, as did Kindle. Amazon was heavily used as a cheer-up for family and friends; a box of chocolates, fun shirts. Then, only funny internet things by email as the lockdown became tighter and shipping restricted. Our fabulous building neighbors and landlord Fabrice, offered help for anything we needed. Our upstairs neighbor, Marie, took to her violin practicing and opened her window so we could hear it better. Then the building grew quiet as the residents left to quarantine with family. We lost a favorite building resident who permanently moved in with his girlfriend and we waved goodbye from the balcony as he drove off.

We lost some people we knew in the states to the virus, as did our friends and their families. We worried about a nurse/friend and relatives working in needed jobs, still out there. We, like everyone else, experienced up and down days. We struggled with bouts of anxiety and melancholy, but relied on each other to keep both at bay. We kept our regular schedule of weekly video chatting with family and threw in an occasional video chat with friends. We still enjoyed the incredible sunrises, sunsets and general weather here in Lille.

Time came to complete our absentee ballots, which we did, file taxes – US and France – and to renew our Opera House 2020-21 subscription which we couldn’t seem to be able to do on-line. Apartment cleaning got done, the shower stall was re-caulked. We requested and received the forms from the Lille Medical University for body donations – always part of our departure plans. With that last tidbit, our to-do list closed and we needed to augment our activities. Researching on-line classes, we started Balfolk dancing YouTube instructions, using our kitchen area. I watched instructions on how to taxi whistle without fingers (I can only do one with my fingers).

We have good friends who got caught in the situation at a bad time. They had planned to move to Portugal and were near the point of making the journey when the virus halted all travel. They’d traveled to Portugal before the pandemic, securing an apartment. Returning to the US, they sold their house and belongings – what they didn’t sell, they shipped ahead. They took their suitcases and dog, making a short stop to see a relative before their flight out. That last trip was when the travel lockdown occurred, leaving them stranded in an Airbnb for about two months before being able to complete the last leg of the journey. On June 25th, they finally made it to their new home.

In May the lifting of restrictions began and we started seeing more street activity as restaurants opened for delivery only. Uber Eats delivery folks were all over on their bikes and scooters. They would congregate on L’Opera steps waiting for deliveries. Lille mailed all residents a mask. Our Titre de Séjour (residency card) was up for renewal and I walked out of the apartment for the first time. Armed with masks and hand sanitizer, we went to a mall to get the necessary photo-booth shots to attach to our application. Also on the need-to-accomplish list that popped up was renewing our prescriptions, so we had online video chats with our Paris doctor and decided this could work well for us for future appointments.

We also needed to get a notary for US-issued documents. Normally, these would be done at the US Embassy but they remain closed. With our landlord’s help, we secured an English-speaking notary (Notaire) who also helped us fill out the needed Apostile application form. Since the US documents were being notarized by a French notary, their signature and authority also had to be certified, done through the Apostille. We then hopped a train to Douai to file the notarized documents with the Court of Appeal (Cour d’Appel) for our District. It took a week (and another trip to Douai) as the paperwork had to sit ‘untouched’ 3 days for virus protection. These weren’t big excursions but it was nice to get out. In Douai, we also bought a nice set of ceramic containers as an anniversary gift. We celebrated our 46th quietly at home, cooking a special lamb dish and watching Amélie, a favorite movie.

In June, outdoor cafes and bars opened and we watched people, who began to return to Lille, dragging their rolling suitcases down the street from the train station. Retail shops opened, and even though they required masks to enter, with which people complied, we also saw that masks weren’t being consistently worn on the streets or squares and that ‘social distancing’ protocols were not being practiced. Lines outside of shops and La Poste were common – at times, long.

People sounds, music and traffic has returned, along with photo shoots, police and protests – we’d almost forgotten (and missed) how noisy our street and plaza can be. For the most part, we remain sequestered, people-watching from our balcony.

We’ve grown accustomed to the predicament. Ailments are tolerated or set-aside until the dust has settled in the outside world. It’s just too early at this point. G broke a piece off of one of his molars but going to a dentist is being put off as long as possible. By then we should also look like we stepped out of the 70’s with our hair length.

So now it’s July. But our French has improved, even if I take twenty minutes to ask for a glass of water. .

My taxi whistle has gotten to the point that you can hear it…. if you are sitting next to me. And our hairstyles really scream of Woodstock.

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