July 2023

As the global reports on weather showed searing temperatures, we were fortunate to escape the triple digits showing in many places. Our highs had a few days at 89° but most fell from the mid 70’s to the low 80’s. The below shot is apropos of nothing except that Lille continues to amaze us with is architectural beauties.

More Blah Blah Blah rather than traveling on this month’s blog, sorry to say. We decided not to attend the July concentrated class at the Alliance Française school, as it was the level above the one we’d just completed and we knew we weren’t able to start at that stage. We opted instead to take tutor lessons, three times a week for an hour and a half at each session. It made sense to try to revisit and hopefully improve on what we had just finished. That, and in addition, we were suffering language class burn out. We’d started non-stop since January and needed a break. I know that’ll thrill everyone tired of our language angst. No office here works in August, so we have the coming month completely free. There is no one willing to throw us any language lessons, even if we were still willing.

Ahh, the mechanics of life ! It was a nice month to take care of some projects we’d had and do some weeding of the cupboards. The winter coats and jackets were taken to the dry cleaners, organizational boxes were purchased to make better use of the scant storage space we have and we replaced a desk which had not been a good fit with one that fits our needs a bit more. As well, we cleared out a large organizer that we’ve had since we moved in but we came to realize it’s just too big for the apartment. The desk is going to a friend, who also got some luggage systems we were getting rid of and the large organizer is going back to Flo to sell at the Grande Braderie in September. The desk in the middle photo took us a while to find and get it delivered but it was worth the wait.

A highlight of the month was Bastille Day or le quatorze juillet (14th of July), which is the equivalent of the US 4th of July. We were invited for our FIRST EVER luncheon at a cousin of our upstairs neighbor, Audrey. We’d met her cousin, Isabelle, over drinks last month and she was quite a character. Wiry and witty, she reminded us of the actress Ruth Gordon. She insisted on speaking to us in English, so she could exercise it and insisted we answer in French, since we needed to exercise that. It was an hilarious après-midi and prompted her to invite us to a “Traditional French Meal”.

Meeting Audrey, we took a metro to Isabelle’s and were welcomed warmly to their lovely home. We were introduced to Patrice, her long time companion and to his mother, Lilly who was turning 80 the following week. Patrice spoke English better than we spoke French, although he staunchly denied it. Lilly was proud to be able to say Hello and Goodbye in English, which we all applauded humorously.

What followed was the most amazing meal that surpassed our limits. There are no pictures because we were sure that would be very rude of us to take any. We started off with Aperos – a sparkling Prosecco, relaxing in the garden, followed then by a nice Pilsner beer and appetizers. The appetizers were a variety of bowls which held cubed fresh melon, strawberries, different olives, cured sausage slices, ham slices, nuts and small biscuits.

The next stage took place at their dining table inside. We were treated to an absolutely perfect Beef Bourguignon, pasta, sautéed tomatoes, baguette bread and red wine. This was followed by simple greens drizzled with oil and cumin, accompanied by a variety of cheeses, with a white wine. Isabelle explained that Beef Bourguignon is normally a winter meal but she wanted to make us a traditional French dish.

The last step was a return to the garden for a fruited cheese cake and cognac or whiskey. At this point I had to step back because I simply couldn’t fit more food in. G was able to stay the course – he took it for the team, team USA of grateful recipients. We left after 5 1/2 hours with many Bisous (air kisses), wishing Lilly a happy birthday and satiated beyond measure. As a relative used to exclaim, “We ate and drank until our wheels fell off!”

I’m ashamed to say that as soon as G and I hit our front door, I collapsed face first onto our bed – sleeping for 2 hours straight. Not having had to experience large family nonstop gatherings at holidays, I can definitely state that I had met my limit with this traditional meal and libations. It was an incredibly fabulous afternoon with the best hosts. With our cobbled French and their better than touted English, we had an absolutely wonderful time.

I did manage to get up from my nap in time for the Bastille Day fireworks, which we could easily see from our balcony. We have a friend who loves to come to France on her birthday, which is the same date, because as she says, “This is the only place where they shoot fireworks on my birthday!”

On a complete left hand turn in subject – anyone who struggles with their hair will appreciate my own tales of the struggles I’ve encountered here. I’m quick to say that I am ‘Hair Impaired’ and can not master anything more than a rudimentary treatment of the stuff that grows on my head. I can’t fault my haircutters for my own lack of skill. Add to that, I’m now in a country, without language skills past the basics. The basics I have are not up to the task of describing nuances in hair styles. In my search, I’ve had a multitude of ‘coiffeurs & coiffeuse’ since arriving and after getting two or three unsatisfactory outcomes (read that as a direct cause of language failure), I would move on to another, always hoping to find the right fit. I’ve had favorites; Aduine who loved to use a lot of product on my head to the point that if I fell on it, I would be as protected as I would with a bicycle helmet. Julliet who took my attempt to ask for ‘short’ to a whole new level with a GI Jane style. Franc, the grey haired pony tail Harley rider lasted the longest but it was more for the fatigue of finding someone new rather than his cuts. I was getting to the edge of wanting to charge down the street screaming for someone, ANYONE to cut my hair who wouldn’t simply see me as some 69-year old lady, giving me the standard ‘old-lady’ type cut. EVERY older woman knows EXACTLY what I am talking about. It’s enough to make you slit your own bangs with a spoon.

One of our neighbors of these past 5 years, Sonja, has always had the most stylish short haircuts and I’ve admired them without being bold enough to ask where she got her haircuts. After the last dismal cut, I got the nerve up and she easily gave me the name. Alix, who turned out to be all of about 5 foot (maybe in heels), works at a wonderful funky place and gave me the best cut I’ve had since living here in France. No pictures of Alix but the salon is so cool. It is what an artist studio should look like. But no, you don’t get to see my cut. You’re just going to have to take my word for it. It’s ‘maaavelous, dahling’.

The rest of the month we continued a bit more of organizing the apartment and making it more comfortable. In October, as we’ve mentioned before, we will have lived in Lille 5 years and over time, we’ve adapted this place to be more suitable for us. The first of the projects was to finish the cabinet for the A/C that I began building in Oct-Nov 2021 during the pandemic. I made it with the ability to store the sides stacked flat, should the need arise. In the last 2 months I finally got around to staining and faux painting the cabinet. The final touch was to apply a knob and faux lock.

The second project to finish was to find a way to ‘hide’ our TV, streaming box and speaker which is on a convenient rolling cart. I had built, out of cardboard, a box that fit over the rolling station with a white fabric over the box that covered the top portion of the set-up. It wasn’t ideal since it was still so ugly that we kept it hidden in the office and brought it out when we watched TV or streamed Netflix, Max, etc.

In organizing the office better, it was clear that the TV needed to be moved out of the office. But putting it in the living room, while extremely practical, meant that we really needed a much more sophisticated concealment than a sheet draped over a cardboard box. It was reminiscent of the old plank and cinderblock bookshelves. Sooner or later you really need to change that look. So, after considering the issue, we measured to make a screen, similar to the cabinet for the A/C. It would be 3-sided, with hinges and I would paint it appropriately. As the plan shaped up, G had also been looking for alternatives online. After perusing a variety of room dividers and screens, we chose a divider that he found which had a look to fit the apartment. It was just delivered this week, it is lightweight and folds completely into one 36 cm (~14 in) panel. Absolutely perfect for us. No sheet required.

We’ve told you about an American couple, C&B, who we have gotten to know, become friends with and enjoy hanging out with, having drinks. We’ve also been trying out different restaurants here in Lille. We went to La Saint Georges Crêperie – which we had all seen regularly but never been to. G said he had not really been enthused in going to crêperies because he thought they were served primarily with sweets or fruit. He was in for a surprise and a treat. We all ordered different savory crepes; a duck potato, a chicken apple, a crab, and a chorizo. All were wonderful and their dessert crepes were just as incredible.

So here it is, the end of the month, sliding easily to a close, ending our tutor sessions and starting the next month with a clean, weeded apartment. It’s a great feeling.