The change in weather from last month’s trip to Kenya was a bit jarring, going from the mid 70’sF° to the low 50’s here, raining with wind gusts taking the chill factor to the mid 40’s. Salads got replaced with soups and stews (and seafood, in Nice).
The biggest event happened on the first. There are two apartments on our floor, our’s and the one next to us being a small one bedroom, which the owner of the financial business one floor below us used as a pied á terre when he came to town. He only inhabited it perhaps four times a year and we’d told the owner of the building that if our neighbor ever relinquished it, we would love to rent it. The thought was to use it as my art studio, although I haven’t painted since leaving the states. Our places were too small for me to paint in our homes and the smell of the solvents bothered G too much. Having my own studio was too expensive in the bay area but the one next door rented for 500€ monthly, which we could cover. As you’ve probably guessed where this is headed, the financial business below moved their office elsewhere and the owner gave up the apartment. Whaaalaaa !! It’s now ours.
As you can see from the photos above, the place is small with an abysmal view of an interior courtyard, which we have all dubbed pigeon palace due to their nesting and droppings. So, an awful view (which I don’t need), but there is plenty of light (which I do need). The tables and a large cabinet were given away by the owner, which we kept. What started out as ‘my’ studio, quickly became the apartment for visitors, as others hearing the news said they’d love to come to stay there. G also jumped on the bandwagon and it was out of control and clearly out of my hands. At this writing, we have bought a pull out sofa for the bedroom – still alluding to the ‘my’ studio space. A list of needs for the ‘visitor’ space, as I now say with a huge smirk, grew by leaps and bounds; floor lamps, end tables, tea kettle, utensils, pot and pan, and towels. I have firmly reacquired the main room for MY studio, by golly. If our guests don’t like the smell of solvents, they can move into our guest bedroom in our own apartment – or move out into the pigeon palace for that matter. Hearing some grumbling? Good. Still, I’m thrilled and a bit nervous as to the opportunity to paint again.
The winters here feel long to me. I even debated with a language professor here that Lille has only three seasons: winter, spring and summer. Winter lasting 5 months with most of October, November and December being grey and rainy, January, February and most of March being grey and cold. April and May are somewhat sunny and though often rainy, leaving June, July and August for sun and warmth. September is back to turning grey, losing the sun in October again. Yes I have a SAD lamp but having lived in states that do have the full four seasons, robustly I might add, I know what those are and when that isn’t happening. I stick to my convictions that Lille has three seasons, winter lasting 5 months. All to say that we had been toying with renting a small place in the south of France for three months (January, February and March) to alleviate the length of grey, cold weather here. But with the newly acquired space next door, our budget, this year, would be too strained to do it.
It was because of this original ‘escape from winter’ idea that we booked a trip to Nice for G’s birthday. We took the train from Lille to Marseille, then switching to the train from Marseille to Nice, a total of 7.5 hours. Lengthy train rides do not bother us, as we nap, snack and read at our heart’s content.
The 5-hour trip down to Marseille was uneventful and serene as we watched the countryside scroll by. The train from Marseille to Nice was quite different, countryside farmland being replaced by the Mediterranean sea coast. Sun, blue skies, blue sea were refreshing to view as we passed beaches with picnickers, swimmers and surfers. The temperatures were at least 10 degrees higher but it was the sun that made the most difference and the French Riviera did not disappoint.
Our suite at the Palais Ségurane in the Port de Nice and close to Old Town (Vieux Nice) was wonderful and the staff very welcoming. The hotel was centrally located for us close by to wonderful parks and gardens and promenade greenways.
We checked in and then grabbed a hop on/off bus to see the town. The landscape was very hilly with the tour of a long thin slice, hugging the coast. Nice, or nicknamed ‘Nice la Belle’ (Nice the beautiful) is a UNESCO site, has a population of nearly a million and like most of western europe, has historically changed hands many times due to its strategic location and port. The winter getaway for the rich included many countries (Greek, Italian, English, Russian) which are reflected in the monuments, the speech heard on the streets and restaurants that we passed.
The weather was extremely pleasant although it was tempered with a pronounced wind factor. It reminded me of Montecito, California which is popular yet has a wind chill factor that can take off most hats, or toupees for that matter. We wondered about the temperature of the sea and though we saw surfers in wetsuits, we noted that the swimmers did not wear them. We finished the bus and strolled the port, on the promenade des Anglais, a lovely center of town.
The next day we took the train to Monaco. The station, along with the entire railway line in the principality, is located underground. We, again, got on the hop on/off bus to see the sights. Very hilly, very rich. This is the world’s second-smallest country, after the Vatican City, and its reputation was built on a lavish Belle Époque Casino de Monte-Carlo, and cemented by the marriage of Grimaldi Prince Rainier III to American screen star, Grace Kelly. Visitors are still seduced by Monaco’s glamorous lifestyle, the Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix, Michelin-starred restaurants and one-of-a-kind attractions.
We had lunch at the Marché de la Condamine. This bustling square, just a stone’s throw from Port Hercules in the Condamine neighborhood, comes alive in the morning with colorful displays of fresh flowers, fruit and vegetables. The food hall inside starts to buzz from late morning as workers from nearby offices flow in for lunch.
Last day we took the train to Marseille as this was the city G most wanted to see. The Marseille Saint Charles train station, perched on a small hill, was opened in 1848, and is known for its grand architecture and the monumental staircase of 104 steps that connects it to the city center. The building was redesigned and rebuilt between 1893 and 1896 and It plays a vital role in connecting Marseille with the rest of southern France, Italy, and Spain and the country’s inland regions.
We walked to the Port, yeah through some sketchy streets, but the Port was an incredible mix of people with a flower and fish market happening with fish fresh from the boats in the harbor.
We caught the hop on/off bus at le vieux Port and we made our way along the Port including the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde, La Major Cathedral, the Vallon des Auffes, the Corniche J.F. Kennedy, the Mucem, and the Cosquer Cave. Among those places, the bus climbed the hill through narrow, steep streets to the Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde for a breathtaking view of the city and the sea. Continuing along the route, we discovered the Panier district, the oldest district with its craft shops and colorful buildings and the Cathédrale de la Major, the Romano-Byzantine Cathedral built in the 19th century. It is considered to be one of the largest cathedrals built in France since the Middle Ages.
Château d’If is a 16th-century French fortress on the Île d’If island, near Marseille, that was famously used as a prison and is most well-known as the setting for Alexandre Dumas’s novel The Count of Monte Cristo. While it served as a fortress to guard Marseille’s port, its remote location made it an ideal prison for political opponents and other inmates until the last prisoners left in 1914 – their own Alcatraz !
As we made our way from-and-to our drop-off point in the vieux Port, we traveled through some beautiful areas of Marseille. Marseille is the oldest and second-largest city in France, known for its vibrant port, rich history, and Mediterranean culture. Because of it being a trading port since ancient times, it is a very cosmopolitan city with a population close to 900,000, and like any big city, has coped with homelessness and crime. Since the early 2020’s, the city has struggled with a notable rise in narco trafficking and other issues related to organized criminal networks, with 2023 being described as the city’s “deadliest year.” I think the reason G wanted to visit is because he relates to Marseille’s reputation, just as when he worked for the city of Oakland and its undeserved opinion of the city by top national politicians, and which is truly a generous and multicultural community.
At the end of the day, back at the Port, we were delighted with our experience. The Hop on/off bus enabled us to discover Marseille in an efficient way, adapting to our pace. We find it ideal for people who want to take in a city’s must-see sights but don’t necessarily have the time, especially on foot.
Returning to Lille, I began to take French language classes again, starting at the very beginning. It’s daunting but I persevere. Due to some head trauma I suffered about 12 years ago, I have a memory-retention problem and have been hoping to improve it by learning this language. On the safari last month, I encountered a lovely woman who had also endured a head trauma incident many years before mine and we came to discuss the memory problems. On the internet there are so many things (to eat, supplements, certain exercises, games to play – the list is endless) that tout sure-fired ways to retrain your brain, improve your memory. All of which ( along with countless books) I have tried and none have produced results.
I asked her if she had in her years ever found anything that helped and she quickly answered with a resounding negative. She had, however, been following a study that had shown ingesting certain mushrooms had been shown to reconnect neurons and improve the memories, particularly in elder patients. She was wanting to try it and hoped to find someone to go with her. When we returned from that trip, I did extensive research, found the studies and identified the particular mushroom, Lion’s Mane, that had been used. Coupling with that, I researched and found that the city of Amsterdam had four sanctioned stores that carried the mushroom. Figuring this was a trip worth making, I contacted one of the store’s managers and began a lengthy email exchange to educate myself further. I was invested enough in the idea that I began to worry about transporting it home, especially in quantity I would need to stock for perhaps, quarterly visits.
To my utter surprise, this was not a hallucinogen by any means and neither would I need to digest raw mushrooms. The Lion’s Mane was sold in my downstairs pharmacy in capsule form and I could easily buy what I needed as often as I wanted, no trip to Amsterdam required. The studies were specific as to the quantity, their subjects enduring no side effects and showing marked results after 16 weeks. However, when abstaining from the supplement, a regression showed in just 4 weeks. I have shared that with my new friend and immediately began a daily intake. I should know by March if I have any improvement. But I have to say I was just a bit disappointed that my nerve-wracking possible walk on the wild side, ingesting and also transporting illegal psychedelic drugs, turned out to be a rather pedestrian over-the-counter capsule. I was really hoping to be a bad ass ! Why not? I got a tattoo when I turned 70. Transporting illegal drugs across country borders is surely my next step.
Also happening this month upon our return was Lille preparing for Noël, with the removal of the humongous columns on our street. I discovered from our landlord, whose office is just down the street, that I wasn’t the only one tired of them.
And, of course, all the festive rides, ornaments and the Marché de Noël were put up to add to the holiday season with mull wine, and good food !
On that note, our month came to an end. We still honored Thanksgiving by watching the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade, followed by roasted turkey, mashed potatoes, yam and chestnut bake and green beans. Oh, and wine. Not to forget the wine. It was quite an exciting month for us and we hope this finds you all well.
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