December 2018

Ahh, December. The last month of what has been quite the year, although this month of all months, was relatively quiet for us. We started out by looking for an evergreen tree. Having only seen one very small one at a florist shop, then later at another florist, by the end of the first week, we realized that larger selections were most probably sold in the more suburban areas, to which we would not be traveling, nor would we haul one back from, on a metro. As a result we opted for an all wood-shaped tree with dry bare branches, which conveniently swivels flat for storage. We made star shaped sugar cookies and gingerbread men. We strung popped corn, bought a few ornaments and hung it all on our ‘tree’.

We were ready for the holidays.

It rained a good amount this month, which we very much enjoyed. As the temperatures dropped, we made more soups to warm ourselves. We did the routine shopping trips to the hardware store, the electronics store and the internet store as needed. The gilets jaune or “yellow vests” protesters were evident in Lille throughout the month with marches down our Rue and also throughout vieux Lille. Other protests (students, unions) occurred as a result. It disrupted shoppers and some markets and shops closed in advance. We were asked to get in line to purchase our items at one market because they were preparing to close as the protest/march was developing and the police had alerted merchants.

The Internet problems we’ve had since the beginning finally netted us a new router, when they couldn’t identify the cause of our frequent down times. Unfortunately the problem continues.

We continue to reorganize spaces and hunt for items to streamline daily life.  Ordering online has become a valuable resource. Ordered some really nice thick yoga mats which we couldn’t find in town, along with storage racks, certain chili spices and a wireless Waterpik. In getting to know Lille better, we found stores – new to us – which were great finds. One in particular is a bookstore named ‘Furet du Nord,’ filled with multitude of delightful rooms tucked in different directions, housed on 8 floors, on La Grande Place, also known as place du Général de Gaulle.

It is Europe’s largest bookstore and our only disappointment was that they carried books pretty much solely in French – makes sense.  But the variety of other items ran from a gemology section, to high quality pens, papers, unique household decor items, art supplies, to teen and children’s sections. Incredible!

The Lille Christmas Market was in full swing and we sampled over the weeks a variety of its foods and beverages while browsing the vendor stalls.

One clear night we got on the Ferris Wheel to see the lights of the city.

The amazing thing about Lille Centre/Vieux Lille is that all of the streets and merchants really get into the spirit with lighting and decorations down most streets throughout.

The Chamber of Commerce next door to the Opera House had an incredible indoor display, market and rink.

There were few lightings outside of the town center and no holiday lights past those which we could spy from the top. Despite the temperature that night, which was 34 degrees, we huddled in our scarves and coats having a great time of it.

Around the third week of December we traveled by train to the eastern portions of France bordering Germany – to see the Christmas Markets in Strasbourg and then Colmar. We chose to stay a night at each to have more time to see the town.  Strasbourg is lovely with undeniably the largest market,

however, Colmar was extremely charming and worth the trip.  We had visited Strasbourg three years previously when we cruised down the Rhine and spent Christmas in Paris. It was nice to remember and see some of the places we had visited. Even with the violence that had befallen Strasbourg the week before at one of its markets, people were out and about with heavy security throughout. Strasbourg is surrounded by rivers and you have to cross bridges to get on/off. Access was controlled and everyone going onto the “island” was having their bags and backpacks checked by police.

Interestingly, old Colmar is referred to as “little Venice” because it is surrounded by canals.

Colmar had Christmas Markets spread throughout the town which gives it the “feel” of the entire village being one large market. Couple of comments – most Gares have directional stripes on the ground for low-sighted visitors to help them get around (see above) and do not park in the center of the village where the Markets are happening…you will be towed. We have to say that everything looks better once the sun goes down and the lights are bright.

Back to Lille and always good to see the art landmark outside the Gare de Lille Europe, we began to look for what appealed to us for Christmas dinner and chose a Chapon ready to roast, stuffed with truffles. A Chapon, as it was explained to us, is a smaller kind of Capon which sports purple feet and is specially bred in Bresse. Accompanied with roasted vegetables, we dined very well that night.

Santa had delivered a machine that made coffee, expresso and cappuccino which we spent the day learning about. After dinner we tried our hand at making expresso but it was clear as we sipped it, people-watching down the square, that we’d have to give a good amount of practice to get it right. I can say that it was hot. That part we got right. This was a wonderful holiday for us, here.

The last week of December we walked the decorated streets, dropped cookies off to the few people we’ve gotten to know, enjoying the crowds and the lights. The large grocery store by the train station has a terrific fresh fish section where we purchased lobster for our New Year’s Eve dinner. We grilled it and had a vegetable quiche as a side dish.  Wonderful! 

At the stroke of midnight, standing on the balcony, the town was relatively quiet but we heard a large cheer go up from the outskirts, accompanied by distant fireworks in the sky.

Quite a month. Quite a year.